22 jan. 2012

Sewing with knit fabric

I read a bunch of American crafting blogs that are really inspiring. However, I've seen some assumptions about sewing with knits being repeated in these blogs that I don't agree with. I'd like to offer my own tips. Doing things the "right" way doesn't necessarily make your project take a long time. But most importantly, it means the clothes you sew will keep looking nice after being worn and washed.

I can put three tops together in two hours using a serger and a regular sewing machine (and I'm no pro, I know a lot of people who are faster), and they still look nice and are in one piece after being used for ages.

Use stretchy seams for stretchy fabric when sewing across the stretch
I'm yet to see a regular machine without a stretchy stitch. Find it and use it, or the seams will break after a while. If you have a serger, even better since it's fast and steady. For hems, use a twin needle or any stretchy seam that your machine can do with one needle.

If you're not using a stretchy stitch, pull the fabric while sewing
This will make the fabric bubbly though, so unless you're looking for that, use ribbing that will make it bounce back. Cut the ribbing a bit shorter than the opeing you're attatching it to (75-80 %). I used a regular straight stitch for the arm and neck opeings here, using this method:


Other tips
- Wash new fabrics so you know the garment won't shrink or have the colors bleed
- Use a ball point or universal needle (a universal needle can be used for both woven and knit fabric). A regular needle punches tiny holes which aren't visible at first, but might show up after a while if the fabric is stretchy.
- Iron the hem before you sew it and you will only need a few needles and gives the garment a really nice finish.
- It's not hard to pick out an overlock stitch if you do it the right way, just consult the manual and use tape to get all the tiny bits of thread off the fabric. Also, the knife won't cut the fabric if you just put it right next to the knife instead of in front of it.

Good luck! :)

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